By Rashid Yusof

1. In the 1970s, Mak Tuan, who by marriage was associated with the old Setoi nobility, showed up in our neighbourhood in Gurun, Kedah. I eavesdropped excitedly to the conversations among elders. Mak Tuan stayed at the big house, next door. On Thursday, Dec 22, I arrived in Satun (Setoi) for the first time.
2. Satun borders Perlis. Satun is blessed with caves and national parks. Visuals from edges of the park in Pak Bara showcase the Andaman sea, Langkawi and Tarutao islands. Rubber trees fill up the lowlands of Satun, and, nearer to the sea, mangroves.
3. At the other end of southernmost Thailand is Pattani, opening up to the South China Sea. Satun and Pattani are 205km apart. Good connectivity means a traveller from Tanjung Pauh in Jitra, Kedah is able to reach Tanjung Pauh in Satun, and onwards to Tanjung Pauh in Pattani fairly swiftly.

Pattani Belt; Pattani Brand

4. On to an additional context. Researching for a 2020 article on Reman, a fascinating enclave of the Pattani people, and, helmed by a succession of Raja for some 120 years up to 1900, someone alerted me to the Pattani Belt. It stretches from Pedu in Kedah, meanders to Baling – Pengkalan Hulu before settling in Larut Perak. Pattani Belt?
5. Additionally, in successive conversations, a scion of the Reman ruling class, told me a fair number of residents in Pengkalan Hulu, Perak, are proud of their Pattani DNA. Pengkalan Hulu, previously known as Kroh, was a key landmark in the Reman realm. The capital was Kota Bharu, in Yala.
6. Pattani is a strong brand. There is a conspicuous Pattani presence in food outlets up north in Chiengmai, around Bangkok’s Masjid Darul Aman, decidedly, throughout Semenanjung Malaysia.

Seven States Created in Pattani; followed by Four States in Kedah – Satun, Perlis, Kubang Pasu, Kedah

7. For historical context, the conquest of Pattani by Siam in 1785 was followed by the fall of Kedah about 36 years later. A Pattani nobleman, Wan Mohd Arshad teamed up with Kedah against Siam. Historical writings allude to the eventual carving out of seven states out of Pattani while Kedah splintered into four entities.
8. Coincidentally, this reporter first visited Pattani some 34 years ago with a Kedah delegation. The reception was pretty distressing. Kids quickly swarmed you for handouts. The place wasn’t beaming with the confidence the old Pattani kingdom projected around the region up until the Siamese invasion.
9. The Pattani I saw this week is back on its feet. Masjid Kerisik is a popular site for Malaysians. Toll-free dual-carriageway delivered me to Pattani pretty fast. Cars were parked at the roadside in flooded neighbourhoods. The sense of individuality and space must have precluded development of housing schemes. I must, one day, return with Alor Star-born Tok Ayah Wan Ariffin who has close relatives in Pattani.
10. On a number of occasions, Tok Ayah, 65, spoke of this Pattani relative of his who owns 11 houses which are rented out.
11. Recently, Yusof Ismail, the Nazir of a Kelana Jaya mosque, wrote a moving note after presenting five air-conditioned units to the Masjid Darul Naim, Tanjung Pauh, Kuala Prema, Pattani.
12. Yusof observed that the aircond units were “expertly installed on the spot in time for Zohor prayers”. Yusof’s team presented 100 Thai Baht to 160 beaming kids at the Taska, before visiting Pattani’s famed scholarly traditions at a local Pondok.

A national park next to the passengers’ jetty in Temelang, Satun. It is the main jetty for passenger boats from Kuala Perlis and Langkawi

The sea appears pretty rough to visitors of Pattani but the nonchalant lady anglers are not about to budge

Midnight Rubber Tapping

13. The other Tanjung Pauh in Thai southernmost region, is Satun’s Tanjung Pauh overlooking the Andaman Sea. It is fairly common to have Malaysians drive across the border at Wang Kelian in Perlis for lunch at Tanjung Pauh. The time on your phone eases back to Malaysian time in Tanjung Pauh.
14. An hour or so up North is Pak Bara. Some Malay residents of Satun don’t speak the language including those hawkers in Pak Bara.
15. Azman Jaafar, 42, of Kampung Cina, does speak Malay. He has been praying for a spell of fine weather and better rubber prices.
16. Now, the rubber tapping routine in Satun deserves a mention. “We would go to bed soon after Isya prayers at about 8pm and will be up before midnight”.
17. Rubber tapping begins in earnest at midnight coinciding with best latex-fluidity. After Subuh prayers, they would nap for 30 minutes or so before returning to collect the latex.

The Andaman Sea greets visitors to this National Park in Pak Bara

Wrap-up

18. After three days of Thai food, we stopped over at Rahamath, a makan place tucked next to Masjid Negeri in Ipoh, to mark a return to normalcy. At the Masjid, I overheard someone answering his phone. “Malay”, exclaimed the voice. “Malay” enunciated with a distinct style is Malaysia, for Thais.

19. Traversing the bordering provinces of Thailand, I was wondering if Thais would reciprocate our frequent visits. They do! A youngish Abdul Rahim would be delighted. His wife is from Yala. I met him at Masjid Kerisik and he runs Restoran Dapur Nadia in Ipoh.

20. This narrative is not proving to be a quick read. It must end with Mak Tuan’s ring. Such was the bonding with our family that a Mak Tuan ring has been passed on to my daughter.

Shed Pele, Dergak, and now, RY. The writer is on a listening journey, having concluded that he has been overly opinionated.

Note: The main picture shows Masjid Kerisik in Pattani. Scholar Sheikh Daud bin Abdullah al-Fatani was born in the Kerisik area in year 1720 or thereabouts.